Dr
Ghulam Yazdani was the first to photograph Ajanta paintings, and to initiate
the first serious conservation of Ajanta and Ellora. His work on the two sites
was exhaustive and published in two volumes. He did much more, studying and
helping conserve several Indian historical sites, including those in Warangal,
Mandu and Bidar. His efforts and scholarship were enabled by the Nizam of
Hyderabad. Please
read this article for more information on his work.
Here’s a smaller personal anecdote. In the summer of 2016, I was sent on
assignment on the
Deccan Odyssey. I wrote the magazine article without mentioning
sadness and moments of unease, given the light sprinkling of Islamophobia encountered
at various spots.
The
trains stopped and allowed us to visit two wildlife reserves, Tadoba and Pench,
and sites of artistic and historic significance in the Deccan such as Ajanta
and Ellora. The architecture and art is exceptional. That is
why people of all faiths come to visit, to admire and perhaps gain some
knowledge. In most conversations, local guides tended to emphasize the role of
the British in conserving Ajanta and Ellora, when actually this was territory
controlled by the Nizam of the kingdom of Hyderabad and it was his
administration that conserved and documented much of whatever still
remains.
Some
of the guides also attempt to twist the history of Daulatabad. I was traveling
with a book (Aurangabad with Daulatabad, Khuldabad and Ahmadnagar by
Pushkar Sohoni, published by Jaico) and was able to note these
discrepancies. Some people were mouthing the usual falsehoods, describing all medieval-era
mosques as having been built on top of temples. The fact of architectural
synthesis was twisted further in service of the narrative that Muslim rulers were
antagonistic, when in fact, they were creative and very open to local cultural
influences.
I
first heard of Dr Yazdani at Ellora. I had walked away from my own group and
guide, and was walking past another group when their guide mentioned the Nizam’s
role in the conservation of the temples. I stopped to listen and as the group
began to walk further, I sidled up to their guide and asked: what were you
saying about conservation?
He
told me about Ghulam Yazdani's enormous work and the state of Hyderabad
preservation of Buddhist, Jain and Hindu sites. I expressed surprise because our
guide had not mentioned this at all. The young man just smiled.
We
had our respective jobs to do, so I thanked the younger guide and perfunctorily
exchanged names. His was a Muslim name too. As he left, there was that smile
again, rueful. I understood this time what it suggested: it is not so much that
accredited guides don't know but that they want to
forget, to discredit and to disengage from a better past. The positive role
played by Indian Muslim scholars mattered to him. And it mattered to me. It
mattered very little to most others.
I
have forgotten that guide’s name now, but I have not forgotten that look of
pained understanding in his eyes, that rueful smile. And perhaps he read some recognition
in the rueful smile I returned before turning away.