Tuesday, December 25, 2007

Blink

Like always, you turn to poetry, when it seems as if you cannot find the words....

"Sabse Khatarnaak woh chaand hota hai
jo har hatyakaand ke baad
veeraan huye aangano.n mein chadhta hai
par aapki aankho.n mein mircho.n ki tarah nahin gadhta"

[That moon is the moon dangerous
that, after each murder,
rises above these desolate homes
but does not descend into your eyes like chillies.]

From Paash's 'Sabse khatatnaak cheez' or The Most Dangerous Thing.

A lady called Chandni sent an email today, citing these lines; she also forwarded a message from Anhad along a breakdown of the voting patterns in Gujarat. It asked us to remember that the margins were slim. That for every 37,722 people who voted for the BJP in Rajpipla, there were many more who voted against (37,091 for the Congress - a difference of 631 votes - and 2807 for the BSP).

I hardly batted an eyelash when I'd heard of the result; I hadn't allowed myself to. But for some reason, this email is making me blink. Furiously.

I'm going to try and put up that list in this post, but in any case, you can go and look at the details on the Election Commission website.

CONSTITUENCY

BJP VOTE

CONGRESS VOTE

DIFFERENCE

BSP

IND

1

RAJPIPLA

37722

37091

631

2807

2

MANDAL

34843

34166

677

3818

3

KHAMBHALIA

40358

39560

798

4275

4

KANKREJ

37930

37090

840

28934

5

JAMNAGAR

33021

31941

1080

1098

6

KADI

65835

64508

1327

3848

7

GADHADA

50579

49152

1427

1478

8

SURAT CITY

39607

37908

1699

RJD-2584

9

ANAND

63745

61975

1770

12134

10

KALOL

27565

25255

1884

1427+1016

11

CHIKHLI

59471

57204

2267

2708

12

SIDHPUR

52610

50181

2429

2694

13

MANGROL

48256

45625

2631

3389

2782

14

BOTAD

69662

66474

3188

2134

3188

15

VIRAMGAM

47643

44327

3316

3286

3364

16

MANSA

44381

41011

3370

10478

17

GANDHINAGAR

81864

78116

3748

1766

5128

18

RAKHIAL

53993

50048

3945

1395

1428

19

DASADA

38174

34108

4066

3898

2408

20

SIHAR

50756

46638

4118

3501

2973

21

AMRELI

48767

44578

4189

3143+1397

22

VISAVADAR

38179

33950

4229

3399

2074

23

UPLETA

36602

31917

4685

1946

SP-4141

24

SOMNATH

61233

56004

5229

7099

25

BAYAD

40395

34711

5684

3107

3569

26

CHHOTA UDAIPUR

44422

38304

6118

8056

27

KALAWAD

39497

33225

6272

3449

3693

28

WADHAWAN

47466

40564

6902

23261

29

DANGS

56860

48977

7883

5010+4446

30

KUTIYANA

37130

27980

9150

3064

8060

31

VADGAM

50481

40776

9705

16372

32

ABDASA

39004

28985

10019

12397

33

CAMBAY

50163

40086

10077

3081

8684

Friday, December 21, 2007

An Eid post, an Eid too late

A few months ago, with ramzaan in full swing, a regular reader of this blog asked me to do a ramzaan post. I had replied saying that I wasn't sure I could, since I don't fast.

However, in private, I tried sorting out my own views on the subject, but wasn't sure I was ready to share them until now. With Bakr-eid, I decided to say what I have been thinking all this time.

The main rationale behind a month of fasting, my grandfather used to say, was to instill a sense of discipline and self-control amongst people, and perhaps, to encourage a reduction in conspicuous consumption, to encourage us to think about desire and lack and about those for whom the lack is perennial. That is why, if you don't fast, you are asked to give the equivalent grain or price of food to the poor.

(Aside: Islam is big on giving at all times. While I have never officially followed the 'one-fifth of profits' rule, I've rarely had much excess or profit. On the other hand, I did have a lot of clothes and my mother translated and extended the one-fifth principle to our wardrobes a few years ago. She asked me to make two piles - for every four clothes I kept, I had to put the fifth aside to give away. The first time, it wasn't easy because I wanted to keep everything. But now I've gotten used to the idea and often end up thinking of consumption in terms of fourths and one-fifths. Surely, if I've got four of anything, I can do without a fifth?)

It even made sense to think of dietary discipline in terms of agricultural cycles. All countries and communities have major festivals that coincide with harvests. The period before a harvest is a really lean one. Afterwards, there is plenty and therefore, joy, which is celebrated. With the lunar calendar, the concept of harvests may not apply, but the rationale for celebration, even of the hunger, exists. (Perhaps, somebody who knows a little more about ancient Arabic clans and pre-Islamic festivals can shed some light on this connection between the lunar calendar and harvest festivals).

Personally, I'm not convinced that we need a religious imposition to inculcate discipline. I am not sure that I am a big fan of 'Discipline' as an overriding necessity. If a government ruled that people must starve twelve hours a day, for a month, we'd have rebellion and revolution at the fall of the first dusk. But because religion says so, we not only observe the fasts but impose them on others (they do that in some places, I hear) who may or may not be religious.

As for discipline... am I disciplined?

On long trips on the road, I go hours without food or water. Sometimes up to 8 hours. I rarely lose my temper, and when I do, it rarely expresses itself in violent, public ways. That's discipline enough for me. When I feel I'm slipping up or giving in to excess, I'll fast by all means. But I should be able to do this on my own. I don't need the world to do it with me. To be able to do something only collectively is not discipline. That's just rule-following. Laws aren't spirituality. Spirituality is about making a choice. About choosing to seek something that is beyond the worldly, beyond your ordinary engagement with the material and the instinctive.

And the excess factor? There seems to be no respite from the excess either. The rich have iftar parties that put to shame a poor man's wedding. It is like a wedding feast where the daily excess is trebled, instead of being controlled. And the poor...? Well, the poor eat a little less, or starve a little differently. They get up earlier than they used to and sleep worse than they did. Maybe it does discipline them. Maybe it does teach them that they should be prepared for starvation, if hunger be their fate. Maybe it teaches them to swallow their spittle in more ways than one, to ignore the most primary of instincts. Maybe it grooms them for life, as it were.

If at all ramzaan was intended as a compulsion, I personally feel that it was intended for the rich. For a well-to-do elite clan of traders and herd-owners, to begin with. Maybe that was why that loophole was permitted - if you can't fast, give the equivalent of the meals you would eat to those who need it. Either way, a general form of control and community discipline was intended to benefit the poor. Now it is just a tool of control for some, a social bonding trip for others, and a mandate of identity for the rest.

And yet, I support Eid.

Eid is celebration, even for the poor. Eid is newness. Eid is joy and mingling and hugging people. (I especially endorse hugging.) The poor celebrate with all they have. The rich do too. That, I can deal with. But ramzaan seems no longer an equitable undertaking, if it ever had been. The rich celebrate it. The poor go through it. The middle class sighs that it isn't the one, shudders that it isn't the other, and does a bit of both.

Ramzaan is life, in that way - representative of how things are. And how things are is just as insupportable - to my mind - as they always were.

However, if we must have a compulsory Ramzaan, then I would have liked to change the rules. Let it be a month in which nobody wears any artificial fabrics. Nobody eats anything processed. Nobody works more than eight hours. Nobody works less than eight hours. A month in which everybody works with their own hands at least four hours a day, where they do something that requires the use of physical labour. A month in which everybody gives up routine foods, work patterns, costumes, habits, whatever, even houses. A month of change and real experimentation with the self and with your relationship to the world you live in. Not that I see it happening any time soon... but it would be nice, wouldn't it?

Friday, December 07, 2007

A certain day.

December 6th is a day of mourning. For the entire country, perhaps, but doubly so for me. It is the day my grandfather died. Not in 1992, of course. He died in his bed: practically blind, bed-ridden, in pain, and given to whispering 'ab bas' to nobody in particular, once in a while, even though he showed little sign of 'bas karo'-ing otherwise. Since he could no longer read or write, a kaatib had been hired so he could dictate and finish the last few projects he'd been working on. (One of them had been the researching of various versions of the Ramayana in Urdu.)

On the 6th of December, he slipped away. Quietly, I hear, leaving so much unfinished, unseen, unsaid.

About the other great tragedy of this date, I find I cannot find any new words. But poetry often says the unsayable, and Kaifi Azmi has said some part of it.

"Ram banvaas se laut ke jab ghar mein aaye
Yaad jungle bahut aaya jo nagar mein aaye
Raks-e-deewangi aangan mein jo dekha hoga
6 Desambar ko Shri Raam ne socha hoga..."

Read Doosra Banvaas, here.

Monday, November 26, 2007

Up,

High up, up, up winding roads, it feels so odd, making eye contact with a tribal woman, accosting her and asking whether I could speak with her for a minute.

It feels odd, irrational even, to talk politics as she gently says, yes, you may speak. In her confused, amused eyes, you can read nothing, and to most of your questions, she offers no simple answers. Then, she stares off into space and mutters, "Once, the people sniffed at the wind and followed its bent. Now, people note which way the wind is blowing, but sometimes, they bend the wind a little bit, bend it to their own will."

In Kinnaur and Spiti, where, if they don't get into government service, they get into apples or peas without much of a fuss, they have voted. I probably will get around to writing about the experience of being there, later; in the meantime, my story on the pre-election scenario.

Saturday, October 27, 2007

A brief contextual history of the blogger, in the light of Islam (ism?) and literary spats

I grew up with nursery rhymes. My mother says that I had begun to recite four-line rhymes (and was very annoying, am sure, but she doesn't say that) by the time I was two. These were politically incorrect rhymes. Like "Ten little nigger boys".

I didn't know what 'nigger boys' were. I only learnt the rough meaning when I began to read some American Literature, such as The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn.

Even then, while it had entered my juvenile brain that black people had been oppressed unfairly and that white people back then didn't like them, it still didn't enter my head that 'nigger' was not an acceptable word. I saw a few movies and read more books, where there were plenty of references to the word - black people calling each other 'nigger'.

It was much, much later, when I used the word once in conversation, that some NRI-type student - freshly politically sanitized in the USA - told me that it was, indeed, unacceptable. You can't say it.

But, I protested, they say it.

Yes, he said, they can. They're it. You can't say it. It's offensive.

---

I grew up thinking of myself as 'mozi'. Not Muslim. My mother hardly ever used the word 'muslim' to refer to our family. We were 'mozis'. Actually, she hardly ever referred to us as anything at all. She just made sewaiyyan twice a year, and gave me glass bangles to feel happy in. But there was no escaping it, was there? In this country, with this name, with that festival, you had to be something.

Similarly, she never called a Sikh, a Sikh. She called them 'surds'. It was apparently a Delhi thing. A college girl thing that clung to her and all her sisters over the years.

But, I digress. Where was I?

Yes, so we were 'mozi'. I didn't realize that meant anything much. Except that we also celebrated Eid. We celebrated Diwali and Holi and Christmas too. But there was one vital difference between us and the others.

They celebrated only Diwali and Holi. They did not celebrate Eid.

Over the years, it slowly, very slowly sank in: we weren't like the other kids in the colony. We dressed up in our shiniest best on Diwali, took our firecrackers to our friends', made a common pool, watched the lights, gorged on sweets. Ma put on a silk saree and went to visit other people. She also waited at home, knowing other people would come, and laid out sweets. Some namkeen too, because they would be tired of sweets by then.

But on Eid, we celebrated alone.

Almost. There was one other muslim family in the colony. Mujib bhaiyya's family. He was my brother's classmate. His sister, Nusrat, was a year younger to me. (She died one summer in a road accident, during the summer vacations) My mother had little in common with their mother, but twice a year, we'd go to their place for lunch. I still remember that their rotis were tougher than I was used to and Mujib's elder sister would tear them up into morsel sizes for me, laughing at how plump I looked but how my fingers had no strength at all.

Still, after Eid and before, I was like all other kids. And towards middle school, my friends had started asking curious questions about Eid, asking me to bring sewaiyyan the next day in my tiffin.

My mom said, just ask them to come over.

Apparently, they'd been waiting to be invited all these years. They came over.

The next Eid, they didn't show up. Apparently, because I hadn't extended a formal invitation. I remember thinking, you don't need to invite me over on Diwali; I just come to wish you, don't I? But I didn't say it. I just made it a habit, telling them to come over.

--

The first unpleasant memory associated with being 'mozi' came in.... the fourth standard?

The memory is a vivid one. I was at the 'matka' - our school didn't have fancy filters then; we just drank from an earthen pot, using our palms as a cup - with Rimjhim, a junior in school. (She was a very pretty girl and would ask her fan-friends to tie her shoe-laces, when they came undone on the playing ground.)

She said, you're Pakistani, aren't you?

I said, no. Of course not.

She said, no, I know that you people are Pakistani.

Even then, I knew that I was not Pakistani. I was such an overt patriot that I cringe to think of it now (had saare jahaan se achha by heart - the whole six verses). But in that instant, looking at her face, her smugness, the authority with which that child of eight (I think) spoke, I also knew that there was nothing I could say or do to win this particular argument.

Almost two decades later, I cannot forget. She was a child and I have forgiven. But I have not forgotten.

---

Over the years, I learnt not to speak of religion in public.

My mother never mentioned her religion when we traveled by trains - going to Lucknow to visit our grandparents twice a year. She hardly to talked to anyone, anyway.

I have vague memories of my mother silently sitting through a conversation in which other co-passengers spoke of how muslims should be killed. She wore sarees and no purdah, so they assumed her was one of them.

I was too engrossed in my Agatha Christie novels to know. Later, between adults, I heard hushed whispers recounting the conversation.

---

I still don't tell anyone my religion when I travel. Recently, in the waiting room at Gwalior, a young Punjabi girl - a schoolteacher - plonked herself down next to me, noticed my laptop and decided she wanted to get to know me.

She asked me, what are you?

I said, a writer.

She asked, no, but like, what are you?

I said, I told you... what do you mean by what?

She said, like, I am a Punjabi Hindu.

I said, like that, I am nothing.

She asked, what's your name?

I said, Annie.

She said, are you Christian?

I said, no.

She said, but how can that be? It doesn't make a difference to me, what you are, but you must be something.

I said, I am - writer, journalist... woman.

She said, but your family must be something?

I said, no.

She said, but everyone is something... born something.

I said, I don't know.

She said, what do your parents say you are? What are they?

I lied. I said, if they were, they never told me, and I never asked.

She finally shut up.

---

We never fasted during ramzan as children. My mother didn't either. We went through a brief phase when we dabbled a bit in roza-keeping. I did too. But by that time, I had outgrown the phase in which I said the namaaz.

My grandmother used to call my ramzan 'kutte ka faaqa'.

People who fast but do not pray are likened to starving dogs.

I laughed. I liked the idea of 'kutte ka faaqa'. I still do.

---

When the Babri masjid was brought down, I was still a schoolgirl, and not very interested in newspapers. Nobody even told me that it had happened. And I don't know if I would've felt particularly dismayed if I had heard: mosques didn't mean much to me. There were places where women don't enter (in most places). I had only gone to dargahs and imambaras so far. I hadn't even heard of the Babri Masjid.

Since I watched Ramayana and Mahabharata every Sunday on Doordarshan., I knew more about Ram and Krishna than I did about mosques or Babar or Mohammad. Nobody had ever told me that I should know more about one or the other.

The idea of a secular nation hadn't meant anything until then, because it had never been challenged - on a notional, national scale - until then. But that year, the riots broke out.

I wasn't affected, but my brother was a young college-going fresher. In Bombay. Panic struck as we struggled with telephone lines and reassurance.

For the first time, the word 'riot' meant something to me.

---

We still didn't fast. We still didn't pray in Arabic.

---

I went to college in Ajmer. It was a convent, and so I went to kneel in the chapel when feeling particularly devotional. Or went to beg favours from the khwaja at the dargah.

We all wore shalwar-kameez with dupatta, in college. I was the only girl in the hostel who did not wear a dupatta that first year. And was teased and ragged about it quite often. Eventually, I wore dupattas because it was the fashionable thing to do.

We were not allowed to walk about in shorts even though it was a girls college and there were no men at all except the watchman. We weren't allowed to step inside the mess if we wore shorts, pajamas or short skirts. We were discouraged from wearing sleeveless clothes.

I finally told the warden as nicely as possible that my mother herself made all these sleeveless kurtas and really, my people didn't mind.

She told me there was no point, I'd achieve nothing except getting a tan.

I laughed and told her I could afford to get a tan.

We were warned against going to the dargah. We were warned against hanging around outside in Ajmer. We were warned that if we met boys outside, the nuns would find out and we would be thrown out.

In third year, a girl went outside to meet a boy and stayed out beyond the stipulated time. The nuns found out. She was thrown out.

---

I was already a journalist when Godhra and the Gujarat riots happened.

Nothing happened to my immediate family. I was in Lucknow when the news broke and missed much of the madness on the ground. When I returned, it was just an overwhelming barrage of words that didn't seem to register.

I do not have a single coherent, logical memory of this entire time. Those two months are a blank in my head, even now.


---

After the Gujarat riots, I remember visiting a friend in Pune who was doing her MBA at Symbiosis. We were hanging out with a couple of her friends - sitting near Khadagvasla, talking, joking.

We started talking about taboos and I happened to quote Mark Twain.

'You know what they say.... Holy cows make the best hamburgers.'

My friend didn't get it and asked what that meant - 'holy cows?'

A young man in the group cut in and said, very soberly, 'It's a joke. Against us Hindus.'

My jaw fell.

---

A year after the Gujarat riots, visiting a friend, I found myself saying that for the first time, in this country, I have begun to wonder where I belonged... if I belonged. Why was I made to feel like I didn't?

She wisely pointed out that perhaps I should think, then, of where else I would belong.

There was nowhere else. You just belong where you belong.

---

When the Bombay serial blasts happened, one of our relatives was badly injured. Very badly injured. She worked in an office with lots of glass. The glass shattered. Splinters.

Shatters. Splinters.

---

When the bombs went off in the local train last year, the panic was a personal one.

I have college-going cousins who use the local trains. I have close friends who use the local trains.


---

A young writer friend wrote about her experience in Nizamuddin. She had gone there and decided to buy a burqa. She's not muslim. The article was an exploration of her own desire to buy something that is clearly an identity-marker for the 'other', something she is not and something that is not considered desirable for her.

When she read the piece out in a small gathering of aspiring writers, an older woman decided to initiate a discussion about Islam and gender, Islamism, and the conversation immediately turned to terror and 9/11.

Apropos of nothing.

---

The same older woman came back to the next gathering with a poem. About bombs and veils and the need to stand up and take a stand against this sort of thing. Terror. For the sake of our freedom.

---

You may have heard about Martin Amis. And how he's decided that he doesn't like Islamism very much. Terry Eagleton has decided that Mr Amis is a racist, an Islamophobe, and a lot of other things, besides.

Emily Hill has said some other, more mixed, things. Such as "Amis’ literary reputation, meanwhile, has gone the same way as the World Trade Center."

The spat is a very public one and perhaps, an ongoing one. It doesn't particularly perturb me. It doesn't surprise me either.

The Hindu carried an edit piece outlining Mr Amis' views: “There’s a definite urge — don’t you have it? To say: ‘the Muslim community will have to suffer until it gets its house in order. What sort of suffering? Not letting them travel. Deportation — further down the road. Curtailing of freedoms. Strip-searching people who look like they’re from the Middle East or from Pakistan… Discriminatory stuff, until it hurts the whole community and they start getting tough with their children.’”

Hill's article explained further: "Islam, in Amis’ view, ‘is a religion that’s having a nervous breakdown’. And Islamism is a variation on a death cult – an ‘ideology within a religion, a turbo-charge, steroid version of murderous belief’. He made some interesting points about suicide bombing, describing it as a ‘paltry’ act, signifying nothing but a ‘besplattering’ of the self. What the Islamic world needs, he said, is dramatic progress: ‘Martin Luther, John Calvin… religious wars, then Enlightenment, then you enter the modern world 300 years after that.’ He argued that it is the Western world that is giving Islamism its power to commit atrocity, even helping to legitimise that atrocity, by trying to ‘understand it’."

---

In some ways, he is right.

We will have to pay the price. I don't think it is fair. I don't want to pay the price. But I will.

I will suffer a little bit more for being born to a Muslim mother (who never used the word muslim, and who wore silk sarees on Diwali and first taught me how to make baatis out of cotton-wool for the diyas, and how to make valentine's day cards, and how to bake a cake for Christmas) because of the idiot fatwas and the crazy bombings. I could well be strip-searched if I traveled abroad and if that happens, I will grind my teeth and bear it.


Oh, yes the larger muslim community will pay the price alright. Is there an alternative?

---

Amis says the community has to get its act together. That parents have to teach the children. Sometimes, I wonder... what sort of writer is he if he doesn't know that nobody has ever been able to teach anyone anything, especially if it's about non-violence. Gandhi tried and failed.

Each generation rebels. One generation migrates, the other becomes too liberal, the next one too conservative. One wants to slash at roots, the next one wants to find them. It has always been like that. And each generation has suffered. How can any muslim parent prevent a child from turning fanatic? Does Amis seriously imagine that muslim mothers preach bloodshed at home? Or does he seriously imagine that muslim children are any more or less obedient than kids anywhere else?

I don't blame my mother for me. And if I ever have children, I hope I won't get blamed for them. I don't blame terrorists' families for them. I don't blame the white parents of children who attack black children. I don't blame the black parents of children who attack white children. What will blame achieve?

I think that it is funny that Martin Amis should not understand. Writers know these things. But, I don't blame him either. What will blame achieve?

---

For a moment, I wondered if Amis has close muslim friends. I am convinced that he has never loved a muslim woman. He can't have. Love twists your mind around, even against yourself.

---

I'll concede that the community (but which community?) has to get its act together, for there are identities beyond religion, and sooner or later, they will assert themselves. Already, they do. Shias kill Sunnis and Sunnis kill Shias. Kurds. Various clans and tribes in many, many African nations. Genocide is not always about religion. And religion is also not always about religion.

Religious wars, did Amis say? Yes, we are having religious wars.

Breakdown, did he say? Yes, the religion is having a nervous breakdown.

-

I think muslims (and non-muslims) need to let their hair down and have fun. I think they need to stop attempts that seek to turn them into a homogeneous mess. To be many other things besides muslim; to refuse to be tacked down to that awful phrase 'muslim community'. To prove that there is no one 'muslim community'.

The community needs to stop being a community, a vote-bank, a lump or a mass. It needs to reject responsibility thrust down our throats if it is based on identity.

Sure the community that isn't a community needs to change. It needs to laugh at itself and its fracturedness, and its idiosyncrasies. It needs universities and investment in culture and art. It needs to run about in the sun and plant shady trees and fragrant flowers and respect all sexes.

---

I have never read anything Martin Amis has written. (I might now, seeing that there's so much fuss). Even if he had been one of my favourties, what difference would it make? I don't break bread with him. He does not come to my place to talk about poetry. Like we say in Delhi, saannu ki?

---

Yet, there is this business of Islamophobia.

You see, I don't like most organised, violent groups, especially if all members come from the same religion. I am afraid of fanatics. I don't like aggression or imposition.

I don't like most preachers. But I see the need for priests and preachers. I am annoyed by tradition. I follow tradition. I break rules. I know the rules. I don't like violence. I am surrounded by violence.

Am I Islamist? Am I Islamophobic?

Do I hate myself because I do not like organised religion, and yet, cannot find a way to break out of ties that depend on religious ritual?
Do I hate myself because I do not identify with organised religion?
Can I bring myself to hate those in my family who like the organised part of religion and who want to go strictly by the book?

What does faith have to do with any of this?

My faith is closer to sufi. Are sufis muslim?
Sufis did not like mullahs and mullahs did not like sufis. Are sufis Islamophobic?

My faith is selfish. My faith often does the disappearing trick. My faith is tender and fragile and unbreakable. It is plastic. It is solid. And I cannot bring myself to feel enthusiastic about ramzan. But I do not like Lord Ram or think of him as either a god or as 'purushottam'. I do not like the word 'Ram-janmabhoomi'. Does that mean I am Hindu-phobic?

I am scornful of young, Israeli tourists who flock to places like Manali or Pushkar, stoned out of their minds, rude to the locals. I pity these young Israeli tourists who have just finished serving in a compulsory army and who seem not to know what to do with themselves, or where to go, barring to the places where others have gone before them. Am I an anti-semite?

I pity Palestine too, and all the young people there. I pity those who live on the border. I pity their fear. I empathize with their fear.

During Durga Puja, I had gone to C.R. Park and offered 'anjali' to the Goddess. What does that make me? Secular?

If I am asked my religion when I go to temples, I lie and give them a Hindu name. What does that make me?

I don't like the idea of Pakistan. I detest the idea of religious states. Does that make me Islamophobic?

I want to visit Pakistan. I have family there. What does that make me Islamist?

Sometimes, I want to kill all the Taliban. If it were possible to kill a mindset, in one fell swoop, I suspect that I could be persuaded to kill. Am I Islamophobic?

What is Islamophobia?

What can you fear, if you don't know it? Or can you only fear what you don't know?

I know the fanatics as well as one can safely know them. I know them as they bomb the shopping complexes in my city, the trains in my brother's city, the dargah where I went, the cinema in a city I travel to for work. And knowing what they do, I know that they are ordinary young men with half an education and maybe only a little money, which is not any antidote to fear. Or hatred.

What does that make me?

Monday, October 22, 2007

Seen in Chandigarh

On the local cable TV channel, Bollywood songs and dances played with a running ticker offering various products and services.

One of them was from a certain 'vashikaran' specialist. He advertises himself thus: "Pyaar mein dhoka khaye ladka ladki turant milein. Khoya hua pyaar vapas mil sakta hai. Mobile number -...."


Seen in a 'tabloid' entitled Shopping & Lifestyle, distributed free in the Chandigarh-Delhi Shatabdi: An article headlined 'Pack up tips for your train trip'.

The first sentence says: "Packing for a rail trip is similar to traveling by air - you may have a little more room if booking a sleeper car but most luggage should be stored in baggage..."

The next paragraph says: "Bring along some snacks, toys and activities to keep children occupied..." and "Bring comfortable shoes and a change of clothing for each member of the family".... and "Bring headphones for a tape player."

I was, and am, amazed. Really. Somebody actually writes this stuff. Somebody might even be making a living writing this stuff. Truly amazing.

Friday, October 12, 2007

They do show up, you know

A few weeks ago, Jamia had organised an Indo-Pak mushaira.

Since I was heading towards Jamia in any case - to visit Qurratulain Hyder's grave - I decided to attend. The main draw, for me, was Nida Fazli being one of the featured poets but there was the undeniable anticipation of watching a real, live, mushaira - my first such experience - with famous contemporary poets from both sides of the border. As it turned out, many other people had been just as eagerly anticipating the event.

I knew it would be a packed audience because, despite begging and pleading with the media relations office, there were no more 'passes' to be had. The gentleman who picked up the phone very politely, very insistently let me know that the organisers were already nervous; they might have distributed more cards than there were seats. However, what I walked into that evening was too much like a poetry mob for my comfort. There was a crowd of about 300 students gathered outside the Ansari auditorium although I had arrived half an hour early. The watchmen stood in a cluster to one side, allowing you in only if you waved your invite.

I stood in queue, listening to several elderly ladies arguing about how they had definitely got an invite, they just couldn't find it at the moment, while the crowds swelled and roared to be allowed in.

Once I was seated inside, the roar filtered in every few minutes. Cries of murdabad. Cries of angry, impatient, excited youth. Frightening cries. From behind the empty stage's curtains, a firm, polite voice repeatedly requested the waiting students to go around to the back, where the open-air auditorium was and where a large screen had been set up for those who did not have an invite. I wish I could communicate here, right now, the sweetness of that firm request. How, in Urdu, you can say, "Auditorium mein gunjaish kum hai... Hum jaante hain ke aap kitne mushtaq hain, kitne betaab hain", sounding deeply civil and how you cannot match that to its translation. "There's no space here" is just not the same thing, is it?

The announcement must have been repeated at least a dozen times before some of the mushtaq-betaab crowd budged. Once a few had budged, some more budged. Eventually, enough of them budged to dispel the organisers' fears and the program could begin. Some of the promised poets did not attend (Javed Akhtar was missing, for instance). Nida Fazli was, well, Nida Fazli. His poetry was lovely in its simple themes and he was as direct and clear-throated as his verse. I'd read some of his longer poems, but this time he concentrated on 'dohas', which were a revelation. (Today, incidentally, is his birthday.)

Asgar Nadeem, a visiting Pakistani poet, presented a new one about sixty-year old travelers. Or possibly, travelers who had been on the road for sixty years and cannot find their way home.

"Musafir saath barso.n ke abhi tak ghar nahin pahunche...
kahin par raaste ki ghaans mein.... taarikh ki jadein khojte hain....
musafir saath barson ke bade pareshaan hain..."

(Travelers of sixty years have not reached home yet...
Somewhere along the way, they stop to look in the grass
for the roots of history...
these travelers of sixty years are very troubled....)

Popular Meeruthi warmed up the evening considerably with easy, jocular shers like "Raaz ab samjha jhuki nazro.n ka, jisko sharmili samjha, vo bhai.ngi nikli". The students were delighted. I was not, especially after he took pointless potshots at Mallika Sherawat's clothes. However, I do love funny poetry, and one of my favourites is Popular's take on a famous Zafar sher.

"mahabuub vaadaa kar ke bhii aayaa na dosto
kyaa kyaa kiyaa na ham ne yahaa.N us ke pyaar me.n
murGe churaa ke laaye the jo chaar "Popular"
"do aarazuu me.n kaT gaye, do intazaar me.n"

[Zafar's original was: "umr-e-daraaz maang ker laye the chaar din
do arzoo main kat gaye, do intezar main"]

The highlight of the evening, for me, was the oldest poet (Gulzar Dehlavi? I failed to catch his name when it was announced) who had turned up in a white sherwani, his skinny legs looking even skinnier and more bowed in a white churidaar, a red rose in his button-hole, a scurrying walk, a cap tilted on his bald head, and a flamboyance that quite made up for the lack of brilliant poetry (none that he chose to read at any rate).

He joked about how he's been instructed to read poetry but not something as old as himself. He read second-rate romantic shers, then paused to look at the audience and state: "Saste sher zyaada chalte hain" (the cheaper verses are more popular), before going on read some more! He scampered. He lolled against the gao-takia. He almost rolled over backwards at one point. He spoke loudly, interrupted when he chose, and gallantly insisted that the women poets also come up on stage to sit 'humare pehlu mein' (which is not the same as merely sitting next to somebody, is it?) "Meherbaani kar ke zahmat farmayein", he said and spoke of how he had not seen the white-haired Zahra since the 50s, and how very beautiful she was. Zahra, despite the coaxing, did not come to come up to sit in his pehlu, but the much younger Kishwar, did.

I hadn't read much of Kishwar Naheed and the little I found on the net might be early work that does her little justice. Hers seems to be strong, feminine voice that knows the art of gentle combat.

Half-way into the evening, I decided to leave the auditorium to sit at the back, with others who did not have passes. There awaited the real surprise of the evening. There must have been at least two thousand people watching and listening, almost all young men, almost all students of Jamia. So this had been the roar that was demanding to be let in, to hear the poets live, instead of watching them on a screen.

And of course, they made crude comments, especially when the women poets stood up to read. And of course, they were snide about the more serious shers. And of course, they treated romance with as much disdain as they could summon but reveled in it nonetheless.

My only reaction was a befuddled 'wow!'. The very idea was overwhelming. Two thousand and more! At a poetry event!

Outside Hazratbal.

Inside Hazratbal, a jaali-wall, a concrete veil outside which women and children kneel. Beyond this point, I am not allowed to go.

This concrete screen - covered in tiny scrawling hopes and inky laments.

God, make me pass my matric exam. God, make my mother well. God, get me a job. God, I want to be top of the class. God, keep us together. God, let him love me. God, do not separate us lovers. God, keep our enemies from us.

And from one little girls' pencil:

God, if you help me clear my exams with good marks, I will come back to give you eleven rupees. And if you help my father with his work and clear our debts and restore my mother's health, I will come back with one hundred and one rupees. And if you help us build our house.... And if my brother does well in his exams....

In Urdu. In Hindi. In English. In mixtures. The scripts vary. But always... God, love! God, health! God, money!

Wednesday, October 03, 2007

that spiral of moving and losing

The other thing about this job is the hardening and having to watch out for it.

Last month, while making calls to some contacts in Madhya Pradesh, I found myself mouthing the words 'It is serious...? Did anyone die?' Even before I'd finished saying it, I was awash with shame: that I should be measuring a potential story against the number of lives lost?

But that is how we sell our stories, don't we? Not just to our editors but also to readers; in short, to ourselves - the literate, newspaper/magazine-buying middle-class. Who died? How many hurt? How many of them were children? And if nobody died, what's the noise about?

So, this is my current quandary: how does one sell starvation?

How do I sell it as an important piece of information that must be communicated to the world at large? How do I sell it before it actually kills some kids? How do I sell it if nobody certifies that hunger is, indeed, hunger? How I sell it if there are no compelling pictures of toddlers with protruding bellies and fading eyes? How does one photograph a starving adult?

How do you wear down an adult's self-esteem to the point that he admits to you - 'Yes, I am starving. I've been starving for a whole year. I have tuberculosis and I am going to back to work in the stone quarries because dying of tuberculosis or silicosis is easier than starving.'


The situation, you see, is serious. People have died. Children have died too. And if they are not dying this very instant, at the time of writing this, I am grateful, but I am not relieved.

I went back to Shivpuri this year. I've been going to Madhya Pradesh over the last two years, covering hunger in tribal villages. At first, I went after reports of kids' deaths filtered out, from Patalgarh. Then I went back, and found that things had improved marginally in Patalgarh - an anganwadi has been set up, and a school with mid-day meals. But in another village nearby, I heard of more deaths. And after that, more hunger on yet another trip.

This year, I went to visit another set of villages where there have been no deaths so far. At least, no children's deaths that are directly attributable to malnutrition. The state has been trying to introduce all sorts of schemes and programs to prevent starvation deaths. But hunger seems chronic, almost inevitable. This time, I began to understand - in part - why this was so. this time, I encountered displacement afresh.

Displacement is a funny word. A very inadequate word that conveys nothing of its meaning.

Displacement is not about moving. It is not about packing up and saying goodbye to the trees and the dust and saying hello to other people, other dust in a new place. It is not about losing touch with old friends, old customs. It is not about losing beauty and calm, mist and dew, wilderness and privacy.

Displacement is about losing a river. Losing access to clean, safe drinking water. Losing water for the fields. Losing land that is watered richly. Losing the fields that gave you grain. Losing the land that your herds grazed on. Losing your cattle. Losing the milk that came from the cattle. Losing the meat the goats ensured. Losing the sheep that gave you wool. Losing access to mud and wood that gave you shelter. Losing firewood. Losing the birds and the bees. Losing honey and herbs. Losing leaves that could be either plates or smokes. Losing hygiene. Losing legality. Losing the right to protest when somebody in a uniform and a jeep shows up to set fire to your home. Losing your walls and roofs.... what is left to lose?

No, really, what is left to lose?

With one stroke, with a single order, with a few meetings of committees formed in the state capital, all this is lost.

I had gone this time to visit displaced villages - villages that have been cleared out of forests we want to protect or 'reserve'. In this one state, there are 29 such areas that require people to move out. That require them to lose all the above-mentioned.

And they did. They lost all of that.


"Many changes over the past decade have pushed villagers who once had enough to eat into a spiral of food insecurity and the uncertain arms of the public distribution system (PDS).... Take Balharpur village. About eight years ago, its residents, most of them belonging to the Sahariya tribe, were moved out of the Madhav National Park and dumped upon a stony, non-irrigated tract of land near the highway....

While moving, the villagers set their cattle free near the Balhar Mata temple in the forest; they were certain they would not have access to grazing land in the New Balharpur village. And they were right."

Saturday, September 22, 2007

The after-seethe

A few days ago, I was at Gwalior station, waiting for a train that just wouldn't arrive. Since I travel very light these days, I just swung my bag on my shoulders and proceeded to walk about, mostly between the enquiry counter, the platform and the tea-stall.

The man approached from a distance. I could see him but didn't notice him until he extended an arm and tried to wrap it around my waist as he walked past. For a fraction of a second, it didn't sink - what just happened? But instinctively, my hand had latched on to his arm. Even as he began to walk away, I pulled him back and with the other hand, caught his ear, and asked him (in Hindi), "Where do you think you're going?"

Young man, checked shirt. From his expression, he didn't seem to realize what was going on.

He just stared, then asked, "What do you want?"

"I want to take you to the police station."

He tried to walk off again. I hit him on the arm and twisted his ear. A few people gathered. Most paused half a second to glance at this new tamasha, and walked away.

He stepped back and struggled free. Then he got out his wallet and began to produce credentials. Some sort of identity card. "I'm not just anybody, you know..." he began.

I snatched the card out of his hands and yelled, "What do I care about this? What difference does this make? Come to the police station."

A few people asked, in passing, "What's going on? What's the matter?"

He said, "I didn't do anything."

I slapped him.

Before I could ask anyone to help me take him to the police station, he snatched his identity card out of my hand and broke away. I was about to follow him, frightened as I was, but right behind me, there stood two railway police cops. In uniform. Not saying a word. Watching.

I saw the checked shirt receding, disappearing into the crowd, and decided to forget about going to the police station. Instead, I went to the ladies-only waiting room, to seethe in silence, and to glare at every man who entered the room whoever briefly.

Friday, September 21, 2007

The flame flickereth no more?

A few weeks ago, holed up in a small-town hotel one evening, staring dully at the television, my finger stopped jabbing remote when I caught a glimpse of Mashaal.

I had seen the movie before, but yet, I hung on. Waiting for the famous death scene. The one where Waheeda Rehman, who plays Dilip Kumar’s wife with a quiet, assured dignity, dies out on the street. Her husband tries to hail passing cars and cabs, bangs on locked doors and screams ‘ae bhai!’ Nobody stops. Nobody calls a doctor. Nobody listens. She calls out to him, and dies.

I had known I would cry. And I did.

But this time, there was another scene which grabbed my attention. It was the shop-breaking/looting sequence before the death scene. Raja (Anil Kapoor playing a rough mawaali type) and his friends had just been smashing, and stealing from, a store. A very disappointed Vinod (Dilip Kumar, the upright journalist-activist), goes to his room to upbraid him. Raja, however, is not in the least bit remorseful.

He begins to talk of a memory. When he was five years old, he remembered being out with his father, walking through the market. His father had reached out to touch the fabric that was hung up there for sale. The shopkeeper had yelled. The paradox was his father was a weaver. Perhaps, the very man who had woven that bit of cloth, was now forbidden to touch it.

Raja swears that he would not live like his father did. If he was not permitted to touch something in a shop, he would break it.

For a long time, it stayed with me. That sequence. Incredibly, the movie was made by Yash Chopra.

Funny, how they just don’t say that sort of thing in the movies, any longer. No?

Saturday, September 01, 2007

The weird, the comic and the ugly

This is almost a ritual for bloggers now: to keep an eye - a widened, part-horrified, part-amused eye - out for the weird searches that direct the web-world to their blogs. I had mentioned one particular google search a couple of years back (sadly, have not kept the promise I made at the end of that bemused post).

Here's an update on some of the more interesting searches that led people to Known Turf (the comments in brackets are my reactions):

teachers in transparent saree

mallu in transparent salwar

black prostitutes on the job

quiet kind person (This googler sounds interesting)

fat woman on thin man shoulders statue

sar pe topi lal lal

ae handsome (!)

aye mere nehru (!!)

naughty tailor taking measurements of nude girls with his hands

please I saw the rashtrapati garden (why the 'please')

smriti irani cleavage pics

chennai aunty sex story

DO GUYS LIKE QUIET GIRLS? (In all capitals. And the answer to that is, I hope so)

madhuri dixit mili raste mein mili raste mein, khaye chane hamne saste mein

low waist sarees (this cannot be an Indian, surely?)

jonsar map india

Perverts "R" Us /Stories/ First Time Sex Experience

researcH WORK on rasmalai (Wow!)

dilip kumar saw sayra bano nude (One certainly hopes so)

air hostess getting raped

photos of white prostitutes

indian sexy maidservants

Empathetically meaning Dictonary English to hindi (Empathy means 'samvedna' in Hindi)

yana gupta fashion pictures

how to make an icy chai

woman from india gropped in public large breasts

xxx text stories of sex in india

paliwal farm jaipur sex drugs party

kamuk ho gayi (Kamuk means lustful?)

roti from millets

fuck renuka chowdhary

pathani suits mumbai

shia muttah marriage with hindu women

night bus girl rubbing her breast story bangalore

madhuri dixit mili raste mai (again!)

Which symbol on the 100 rupee note help blind recognize it?

disillusioned with osho (Tsk-tsk)

sanskrit shloka on peace in hindi

land allotment policy for Biodiesel plantation in punjab, india

"hidden recording devices" journalistic ethics audio

Wednesday, August 29, 2007

One more

It is the season for regrets, it seems.

Dashrath, the man who single-handedly cut a road through a hill, breathed his last recently. From Hashiya, I learnt that he was a Kabir-panthi, and that he had been happy with the way the CM had treated him, during a visit.

Glad to hear that he was cremated with full state honours.

There is no need to say, rest in peace. If peace is possible, I'm pretty sure it is his.

Monday, August 27, 2007

The regrets pile up

So Qurrat-ul-Ain Haider too is gone. Slipped away, in a hospital at the edges of this city.

I've been trying to say something about her, but cannot find the words. Partly, because I am remorseful about not having met her, and partly, because I'm annoyed at not being familiar with her work. Oh, little extracts and bits. But not the seminal novel. And while I did buy some of her books in Hindi (I can't read the Urdu script), I still haven't gotten around to reading them.

Ainee Apa, they called her. My grandfather did not call her 'apa'. His children used to tease him, well into his eighties, about the secret crush he harboured. I cannot remember how, in what words, he deflected this teasing, but the photograph stayed.

My first memory of this woman was a photograph, laminated and put out in the drawing room. Stubbornly occupying pride of place amongst other photos of my grandfather's moments in the sun - a prize, a function, with heads of state. And one with Ms Haider. Both smiling, both wearing thick glasses, him seated a little behind, sort of looking over her shoulder.

The other reason she was stuck in my head was because somebody told me, I had been named after her. Ainee/Annie, they called her. And so my grandfather chose to name me. For years afterward, I wondered if this was true, but could never get up the courage to ask him outright.

And since moving to Delhi, I had often wondered if I should pay her a visit. Had never been able to decide whether it would be welcome, or not... One more regretful 'too late'.

Friday, August 24, 2007

Brief items

While I was away and unconnected, several items awaited me in my work inbox. A small sample.

1.

Govt.Girls Middle School, Jaffrabad Extension, Delhi-32, has been charging girl students for using the toilet. Apparently, the toilet is kept locked and those who cannot afford to pay a rupee each time are forced to relieve themselves in the open.

This in a country where millions of girls stay away from school for the lack of toilet and water facilities.

2.

A girl was, in effect, thrown out of school for talking to a boy. According to the legal notice served on behalf of the Class-X-B student, the Govt. Sardovaya Bal Vidyalaya, Vishwas Nagar, Shahdara, "was in two shifts, morning shift for girls and afternoon shift for boys but for the last two years both the shifts were merged and the school was made co-educational. (It is submitted) That on 1st August, 2007, during the recess hours (about 11:30 a.m.), Poonam and Avdhesh (student of class-XI of the same school) were talking in the X-B class room in the presence of about thirty six students. While they were talking, Sh. Dhan Singh, Hindi subject teacher, entered into the classroom and asked Avdhesh to go out of the class. While Avdhesh was moving out, the teacher started beating him. Avdhesh pushed the teacher and run away.... Poonam was called in the principal's room where police and Avdhesh were also present. Sh. Dhan Singh, Hindi subject teacher told the principal that Avdhesh was talking with Poonam. On this, the principal told Poonam that she has been removed from the school and would not be allowed to attend classes anymore."

3.

Seven Dalits ostracized by village for refusing to beat the drums.

4.

Teenager died after spending the night at the police station.

5.

Activists affiliated with the Breastfeeding Promotion Network of India celebrated World Breastfeeding Week by burning bottles meant for feeding babies.

6.

Lok Sangharsh Morcha activist Bhikhu Bhai Tadvi was ordered by the Narmada district Collector to leave Narmada, for two years. This order also applies to surrounding districts like Vadodara, Surat and Bharuchh. Bhikhu Bhai is a national secretary of the LSM, and has been charged with instigating the tribals to spread Naxalite activity in the area. According to the press note, this is not the first time the organisation's leaders have been confined. Suman Bhai Vasawa, president of the Gujarat unit of the LSM, had been arrested in 2006 under PASA, a law not unlike TADA, and released after 50 days in detention.

7.

The Genetic Engineering Approval Committee (GEAC) has allegedly been breaking its own rules by allowing field trials of Bt Brinjal. The press note refers to rules "...which state that large scale trials will not be allowed unless the complete biosafety data has been generated. Bt Brinjal clearly does not fall in this category... In fact, some of the prescribed tests like foliar feeding studies (which have been mandated after reports of animal mortality and morbidity after open grazing on Bt Cotton fields) have not been completed on Bt Brinjal."

8.

The practice of keeping two tumblers — one for dalits and another for others in tea shops — is persistently prevailing in 33 reserved village panchayats in Salem and Erode districts.

9.

Environmental and social activist groups in the country have expressed concerns that Japan may dump toxic wastes into India by takingadvantage of the proposed comprehensive economic partnership agreement (CEPA). The concerns are fuelled by Japan's reputation for dumping poisonous and hazardous waste in the south-east Asian countries with which it has free trade agreements .

10.

A Dalit youth who refused to work - in exchange for the Rs 20 he'd borrowed - was set ablaze.

Thursday, August 23, 2007

The heart that beats no more



I met Lal Singh 'Dil' about two years ago. Interviewed him for this story, mentioned him in passing, in that blog post.

And I did not say anything else about him. How he lived, in what sort of ramshackle barsaati, how he attempted to make some terrible tea for me, how he seemed ill and shriveled and how sunken his cheeks were and how he did not know how to honour me, as a guest, and how he would not let me leave without tea, and maybe a drink? How he held on to my hand when I got up to leave, and how he kissed it. And how he had begun to scrawl poetry in coal-black, all over his walls. And how he asked a visiting friend, Kali, to paint the lines higher up, all around.

There had been some beautiful black-n-white portrait photos Kali had taken, of Dil, but he canceled his own exhibition, when people began to protest against one particular photo - Dil lighting a bidi, and the flame of the matchstick reflected in his eye. (People had problems with the photo because it showed a famous figure smoking.)

And how often I had thought that one of these days, I would go back and see how Dil was doing. And whether he remembered me, and whether he tried kissing the hands of all young women who visited.

And now, it is too late.


For more on Dil:

http://www.theotherindia.org/caste/lal-singh-dil.html
http://www.littlemag.com/vox/dil.html
http://www.littlemag.com/vox/dil2.html
http://bhupindersingh.blogspot.com/2006/07/lal-singh-dil.html

Update:

Sourabh has a tribute to Dil in the Hindustan Times. I cannot find a link, but have his permission to reproduce it here:

Where is the heart?

Lal Singh Dil is dead. Long live the revolution

Sourabh Gupta

You love me, do you?
Even though you belong
to another caste.
But do you know,
Our elders do not
even cremate their dead
at the same place.


Lal Singh Dil died two days before my 29th birthday.
But why measure a death as tragic and big as the poet's against an impending birthday as happy and petty as mine? The next day was August 15. The irony of his passing away could have been juxtaposed to that date. But I couldn't do that. I shall remember only this: that Dil died two days before my birthday, a day you celebrate what you have become after you were brought into the world. But Dil was dead. The heart would seize up into a gnawing void.
I have read very few of his poems and do not know much about his long harsh life and I never met him more than twice within a gap of two months and there too he didn't talk much. But Dil was mine because I was not his reader, not his fan. I could not measure his worth with the lines he wrote as I still do with other poets. Neither could I praise his poems nor could I criticise them. Like a lover does to his lover, like a boy does to his grandfather, I had just surrendered to Dil. He might have had remembered me if he saw me again. But that will never happen.
The poet had been killed by gangrene in his intestines, my friend had told me over the mobile. That night, I gulped down some of my grandmother's Correx cough syrup and went to sleep.
"Log Dil, Dil kehende rehdey ne. Par dil hai kithe? (People keep asking for Dil. But where is the heart?)." The thin old man smoking a bidi in a Panjab University lawn some months back had mocked in his softly shrill and suppressed voice to the scholar friends surrounding him. This line was an afterthought, to a debate on whether Marxism was science or Marxism was religion. Dil was arguing for the second line, without any rhetoric, almost talking to himself, as if he didn't want to argue. (This was where I first met him.)

'Words have been
uttered
long before us
and for long after us
chop off every tongue
If you can
But the words
had been uttered.'


The poet could never become the assertive bourgeois; but he was not from the subjugated proletariat either.
Dil's lineage went far below: he was from the stooping figures of social injustice; he was a chamar whose soul itself is considered filthy. No amount of education or money or power could wipe out this slur of destiny. To wipe out this slur of destiny, the destiny would simply have to change; the poet would have had to take rebirth.
On the evening of August 15, Dil close friend Dr Satyapal Sehgal, a Hindi teacher at PU, told me he had been to his friend's funeral at Samrala and with extraordinary sadness recited to me on the phone Dil's poem that I have written above. Dil had really been cremated in a Dalits' cremation ground, he told me.
To turn around this fate, the young Dalit poet had attacked with a group of other Naxalites a police chowki in Chamkaur Sahib in 1969, and after nine months of intense police torture, had fled to UP and become a Mussalman. On his funeral, everything that Dil had done to cleanse himself of his destiny was burnt to ashes. He had changed a lot in 64 years; the world around him had not.
My friend had cursed that it was the state that actually killed Dil, however self-destructive the poet might have been, while Sehgal bitterly said that the Punjabi writers' fraternity was responsible for Dil's death. They knew his critical condition but never took heed and got him any medical help till the last moment.
'News of Naxalbari spread like wildfire. I was working as a daily wage labourer then. Carrying loads up and down the stairs, I felt strangely energised. It was like a great opportunity. What I had not been able to go and do in Vietnam, I would achieve here…,' Dil had written in his autobiography Dastaan.
Dil had recalled to us his lock-up days with grimace. If an animal had been tortured that much day and night, it would have died, he had smirked. He was still being watched, he had said. Two Punjab Police constables often came to visit him, peering through the door to check if he had fled again. But in them too-- the policemen keeping an eye on the former Naxalite-- Dil only saw love. They would come and ask, how's your health, baba? Thy too were enamoured by the gigantic poet. Spying was only an excuse to be close to him, the poet had told us.
After an hour or so, the discussion in the lawn broke up. It was never meant to take the turns it had taken. It was getting bitter with friends and fans.
Dil, the diminutive figure with a rexin bag under his arm, began walking away, following the scholar friend who had brought him to the university. Hungrily, I followed the poet, walking with him, making small talk as if I had known him since my childhood, just to be near him and see him with all the love I could muster up from my welling heart. I had a vision of a saint. But the saint just nodded his head-- it didn't matter if he knew me or not; if I liked him or not. It was beautiful—this inability to connect with words.
As he began to light another bidi, walking on the loose red gravel below the trees, I turned my head back, to see the students walking behind us. I then sped up and went ahead of Dil and turned back completely on the gravel and saw what I wanted to see fully—with two other girls, the tall voluptuous girl student, very fair and well-fed-- the extra flesh oozing out of her very tight jeans and t-shirt—inching towards Dil from behind and dwarfing, by several feet, the dark and oily and wasted-looking revolutionary poet as he kept looking down still lost in himself, and the girls walking past the poet, nearly brushing his rickety blackish body of a labourer and walking past me eventually, lost continuously in their own banter. I felt the rapture I had anticipated. I had seen two opposite worlds coming together. Like a wave had come and crashed onto my heart; it felt all salty and sweet, maybe the heart had burst at its seams.
In hindsight, I had seen the master and the slave and I had seen the revolution. My going ahead and looking back was the revolution Dil had fought for—the rich and the poor or the upper caste and the lower caste, with all their little cultures and dogmas and suppressions and superstitions, feeding on each other, coming so close, so tantalisingly, so obscenely close, that one annihilates the other.

'The long caravan is moving on
Carrying the burden of rebukes
Along the long shadows
Children are riding donkeys
Their fathers have dogs in their arms
Pans hang on the backs of their mothers
Babies are sleeping in these pans.'

From Dil's Evening Tide

Parnab came for Dil later. From Delhi, Manipur, London, East Timor, Kolkata, I don't know. But he came. He was possessed. He was as short as Dil and as fair and plump as that girl in the university. He was from both the worlds simultaneously; he was a two-world.
Parnab started from Chandigarh in a Ford Ikon in the evening with a woman friend of his and a friend of mine who knew Dil by heart and reached the delirious old poet's one-room dwelling Samrala in the dark of the night finding the poet expectedly drunk.
That night, that lonely night, my friend saw the poet weep.
Inebriated Dil was telling them how his publishers were threatening him since he had gone to another publisher, how the old publishers were threatening to stop whatever meagre royalties they gave him. The helpless old man cried and cried.
Parnab Mukherjee is a very sharp theatre actor and theatre director and journalist and activist and in Dil he had found his new play—a solo performance on the poet's struggles with identity and the state, with the poet himself as the audience.
As such, I met my muse again at the Government Museum and Art Gallery, looking tired and more lovable after a rattling, lonely two-hour bus journey from Samarla to Chandigarh amid the morning heat of May, to be, for a day at least, the crown prince of a play on his own life.
Even in the well-lit white gallery, Dil was invisible, like so many others we see, pulling loads or human beings on thin wheels. He had to be pointed out to the journalists and the photographers. He did not carry on his face the inner glow of a belly well-fed and a body less exhausted. Dil had to be pointed out. Then Nirupama Dutt came, the journalist who had written this in a magazine seven years back: "One day soon, I think we shall learn that the slightly crazed man who sold tea and wrote poetry to be painted on trucks, said his namaaz in the mosque and heretically drank country brew, is no more. What will happen then? My hunch is that the people of Samrala will build a little mazar to him and anoint him a Pir." Dil is dead but nothing holy or supreme has happened to him. But the two had a bond. She would sweetly incite him to relive the old times and Dil would melt and slowly expand the story from there. Using the moment then, Parnab would recite a long prose-like English poem on Dil (which I do not know if Dil fully understood but the journalists did, quoting parts of it in the next day's papers) and using the moment again, Dil would read an even longer poem from Naglok. The loop, the circular snake-rhythm of the recurring word 'Naglok' from his fragile throat reverberates in my mind as I write it down.
"No other play had depicted the life of the sweepers so well. Watching it, I felt the saga was set in the present. Harish Chandar was shown tending the pigs, working with a basket and a broom, cremating corpses for a fee and finally breaking down when his wife would not let him touch him for fear of being defiled," Dil had written in Dastaan.
In the evening, Parnab turned and twisted his round plump body on the gallery's floor enacting the agony of Dil and the people of Nandigram—both fighting the state-- and the stick-like Dil somberly watched, sitting crossed legged in the first circle, staring, through Parnab's loud dialogues and restless body, into an eternal, stony void.

Wednesday, August 22, 2007

Seen and heard in Kashmir

Seen at Srinagar airport, on my way back from covering this story:

Large groups of tourists, possibly religious tourists, working themselves up into an aggressive mood.

They were waiting for a Spice Jet flight. Since it had been raining, many of the flights were delayed, including mine.

These tourists decided that they would not wait any longer and starting queueing up (though theirs wasn't a queue, you understand; it was three or four thick and a random zigzag long) at the departure gate. The harried airline officials tried to reason with them, but to no avail.

Across the glass doors, your could see a Spice Jet plane arrive. This group decided that they were going to board the plane, and were unwilling to accept the fact that this was not 'their' flight and that people cannot just up and board any plane, not unless a departure announcement has been made.

This restive little group had been shouting 'Har Har Mahadev' for a while now. The Kashmiri policemen had not said one word, so far; had been unfailingly polite, smiling while explaining that they would have to wait until the airline officials gave them the signal to board.

Some of the men began to press against and bang on the glass doors of the departure gate. Some began to hunt down airline staff and in aggressive overtones, demanded to be put on a flight - now! The staff quickly escaped to the other side of the glass doors and made themselves as inconspicuous as possible.

More shouting of 'Har Har Mahadev'.

An old, old woman, with thick glasses and a rather marvellous, old black burqa with satin trimming, pulled at my hand and asked me to sit beside her.

"Don't stand there. It's not safe."

And then she told me all about how she had a wedding in the family and how her daughter was dangerously sick, and how she was waiting to go to Delhi. And looking at the voluble bunch of tourists, she said:

"Junglees!... Are they not?"

I said, "Er... hmm.... er, I should go and find out about my flight."

I saw her catch at the passing hand of another young woman, bidding her take the empty seat. The wedding, the sick daughter, the flight that had to be boarded.

And then, another woman.

And over strange shoulders, the resounding cries of 'har har mahadev' and harassed police officers, trying to be polite while pushing back something not unlike a mob.
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